I turned 26 on Monday. I nearly missed it though. Since the moment I stepped off the plane back from Italy, I've been rooted to my drawing board and desk immersing myself in the realities of second year architecture. My dad phoned me on Sunday night as I was sat in studio working away and asked if I was coming to visit the following day for my birthday. I assured him that my birthday was on Tuesday and that I'd see him then. Turns out it was the following day.
I haven't had time to recapitulate the amazing time that I spent in Florence and Siena but for those of you that a)know Lorenzo and b)spend any amount of time in his company, you can imagine how good a time was had. That's a lame attempt, I'm sorry. Dinner in Trombicche with Lore's good friends, crushing at the newly developed boulders at Amiata top (between some pain from training on wood and having poor skin), chatting to many people, drinking great coffee, wine and liqueurs. I could continue but you must get to Florence and Siena and see for yourselves.
Currently, I have just finished a two week project designing a house. The brief stipulated a number of criteria must be adhered to which although presenting some difficulties, made us work within a framework to produce a building 'type'. It's definitely an up of the ante in terms of the time given to complete projects but one can notice an improvement in skills across the board developing in tandem.
I need to mail Lore some short video footage and snaps giving a very vague hint at the beauty and quality of Amiata top so you can see what goes on.
Stay cool.
Thursday, 15 October 2009
Wednesday, 30 September 2009
And so it begins...
I've had a very pleasant last week in Siena and Florence with my good man Lorenzo. A lot happened in a short space of time and as I've just jumped straight back into university, I'm going to draft a proper post in the next few days with some short footage of the recent developments at Amiata top.
I've already begun thinking about the possible Austria trip at Christmas with Em and possibly the Mule. I've not really done much skiing before but am beginning to get a psyche on for the imminent potential bouldering and ski holiday. Since travelling on my own to Italy, I'm starting to get into the idea of doing more Euro breaks on my own and am considering looking into Bulgaria ski holidays through these guys who seem to provide a pretty comprehensive package. I've been doing a bit of research into the best slopes and best ways to get involved but I'm hoping James and Em will be able to pave the way for the worlds greatest ski punter. It does seem a tad tragic going skiing on your own but Bulgaria has some fairly esoteric architecture I'd like to check out and it could be more than plausible to head out early January. Who knows.
Will talk Italy after I make a decent start on the new design project. Boom.
I've already begun thinking about the possible Austria trip at Christmas with Em and possibly the Mule. I've not really done much skiing before but am beginning to get a psyche on for the imminent potential bouldering and ski holiday. Since travelling on my own to Italy, I'm starting to get into the idea of doing more Euro breaks on my own and am considering looking into Bulgaria ski holidays through these guys who seem to provide a pretty comprehensive package. I've been doing a bit of research into the best slopes and best ways to get involved but I'm hoping James and Em will be able to pave the way for the worlds greatest ski punter. It does seem a tad tragic going skiing on your own but Bulgaria has some fairly esoteric architecture I'd like to check out and it could be more than plausible to head out early January. Who knows.
Will talk Italy after I make a decent start on the new design project. Boom.
Sunday, 20 September 2009
Contentment
I've had a pleasant week past and have a pleasant week ahead. I decided yesterday after opening a letter containing some good news from university that I should go to Italy this week before recommencing study. On the back of this thought I logged straight onto Ryanair and booked it. I fly out Tuesday morning and come back next Monday. Lately I've become aware that my good friend Lorenzo has had to endure some tough times and figured he could do with some shoulder slapping, climbing and partying. Thankfully he's not one to spurn a short notice visit from a friend and so I depart with a bag of psyche that I forgot to check in. Ryan Air will probably charge me for that no matter how hard I try to conceal it.
I've been spending the last couple of weeks working on a project. It's something I'm super motivated for and after today feel that the past few weeks dieting/training is starting to pay off. I had something of a breakthrough moment with it today and am eager to get back to it upon my return from Italy. I'll keep you posted on anything significant.
Tomorrow is packing and organising day before Mule comes over to talk flats. Danny's just made the transition to Liverpool and together with the Mule, Ricardo, O, Ben et al. the scene should be throbbing.
Next post will be from Italy where I hope to unfurl my plan of watercolour sketching in Florence in order to meet an Italian supermodel girlfriend. This would be nice.
I've been spending the last couple of weeks working on a project. It's something I'm super motivated for and after today feel that the past few weeks dieting/training is starting to pay off. I had something of a breakthrough moment with it today and am eager to get back to it upon my return from Italy. I'll keep you posted on anything significant.
Tomorrow is packing and organising day before Mule comes over to talk flats. Danny's just made the transition to Liverpool and together with the Mule, Ricardo, O, Ben et al. the scene should be throbbing.
Next post will be from Italy where I hope to unfurl my plan of watercolour sketching in Florence in order to meet an Italian supermodel girlfriend. This would be nice.
Wednesday, 16 September 2009
Girls only want guys with great skills
Will make amends to talk less about inane fingerboard movements now the new beastly macbook pro is through and post some multimedia. Not used to this level of computational efficiency.
Spent ages trying to get blogspot video upload thing to work but it's not playing ball and saying my tags aren't closed. I have no idea what to do to remedy this so if you know the score feel free to let me know. Pointless putting a lot of things on youtube.
Some small rung assists with bungee. Feel ten times stronger since the board has gone up doing this simple basic exercise in conjunction with overload sessions. Donnelly's coming over tonight to play. That should be fun.
I also wish I was this man who looks like something out of Napoleon Dynamite. And wears weird gloves.
Spent ages trying to get blogspot video upload thing to work but it's not playing ball and saying my tags aren't closed. I have no idea what to do to remedy this so if you know the score feel free to let me know. Pointless putting a lot of things on youtube.
Some small rung assists with bungee. Feel ten times stronger since the board has gone up doing this simple basic exercise in conjunction with overload sessions. Donnelly's coming over tonight to play. That should be fun.
I also wish I was this man who looks like something out of Napoleon Dynamite. And wears weird gloves.
Monday, 14 September 2009
Rock boulderising
Determined to escape the sole confines of the garage and touch rock, I've managed to hit three venues of altogether different rock types and climbing styles. The week before last was Burbage, the week past Kentmere and on Saturday past it was Rubicon.
Amazingly non of these venues feel like polished wooden crimps and they make huge demands of me such as that of using my feet to propel myself up or across a rock face. The fingerboard makes less demands and asks only that I contract my digits as hard as possible for a pre-determined period of time. He gives me wonderous gains and quick recourse to the in situ Gaskins action shots prevents any potential premature ejection from the rungs. Quite apparently however, he does not gift me in any way shape or form with the mandatory motor memories needed to ascend the rock.
Two days spent at Kentmere permitted a full tour of the venue without needing to thrash about before heading back down the M6. Conditions were less than ideal in the blazing sun but it really didn't matter on many of the wonderful easy problems. Quite simply it was nice to be on rock and in the most beautiful of surroundings. I warmed up on Badger Arete and then the more satisfying Badger Arete SDS. It's a sublime problem and I'd say is quite representative of the techniques that start to become requisite in climbing mid grade problems and includes a joyous pinch on the arete in the most perfect of positions. The Hole was a very basic and Swiss style pit problem involving some long pulls and satisfying moves. It was also thankfully very well shaded and the conditions in the pit were very reminiscent of the micro climates in Magic Wood. Naturally I made some non climbing friends that had come for the ride witness the sheer brutality of Shadow Play. They seemed about 15% in awe and the situation was likened to the journeys they used to go on with their mother to Roman forts and Wattle and Daub museums. Irrespectively, I took a minute out to imagine G on the send locking hideous micro flat pinches and edges doubtless without emitting a single sound. Truly mindblowing.
Saturday past, Matt and I awoke at 5.45 to head to Rubicon. I was approaching the route scene with an open mind and no expectations but Matt wanted to crush Zeke once more. He's been training hard and it's a real pleasure to watch someone who hasn't been on this route in over a decade take to it as if it was a trade route. Of course he had to familiarise himself with the holds and a very specific sequence and it was probably only a wrong hand movement that stood between him and the crush.
In the cold temps of the early morning it was a little difficult to awaken the body for both of us and it probably wasn't ideal that the warmup consisted of some brief jug pulling before hopping onto an 8b. After Matt had spent time ascertaining what he needed to do next session, I felt I should get a taste for what I would be in for should I commit to sport climbing.
To me, Peak limestone is a little like looking at a TV screen of that visually caustic white noise once found on 80s televisions. I can't differentiate one hold from the next let alone decide where I should put my body. From such little outdoor climbing of late my skin was horrendous on the sharp edges and incuts that feature on some of the holds but I still dogged through sections of the route and slowly began to see where I needed to be to link certain moves. It was perhaps slightly foolish for me to jump on this route but currently my fingers are at their strongest ever and no hold felt in any way bad apart from the most knacky pinch/crimp hold at half height. I walked away from the morning feeling a strong urge to rack up the route hours and work hard on improving the elementary skills required for hard redpointing. It's perhaps slightly foolish to have jumped in at the deep end grade wise but it really does feel like a simple matter of accruing a lot more rock hours and listening to Matt's voice of reason who clearly believes in my capabilities and is keen for me to succeed.
And so the campaign to reinvigorate my regimes, rock types and motor memory has begun. Rather than returning week after week to the same old venues, it's clear that the way forward is in seeking out all that is new and listening closely to the feedback from talented peers (as is ever the case).
Yesterday I acquired my new MacBook Pro and it's very alien to be able to interact so comprehensively with the internet and architectural applications. The unexpected death of the ibook G4 has been a blessing in disguise and gone are the days of waiting an hour for a pdf to open. Expect to see much more video and imagery here from now on.
Happy crushing to you all.
Amazingly non of these venues feel like polished wooden crimps and they make huge demands of me such as that of using my feet to propel myself up or across a rock face. The fingerboard makes less demands and asks only that I contract my digits as hard as possible for a pre-determined period of time. He gives me wonderous gains and quick recourse to the in situ Gaskins action shots prevents any potential premature ejection from the rungs. Quite apparently however, he does not gift me in any way shape or form with the mandatory motor memories needed to ascend the rock.
Two days spent at Kentmere permitted a full tour of the venue without needing to thrash about before heading back down the M6. Conditions were less than ideal in the blazing sun but it really didn't matter on many of the wonderful easy problems. Quite simply it was nice to be on rock and in the most beautiful of surroundings. I warmed up on Badger Arete and then the more satisfying Badger Arete SDS. It's a sublime problem and I'd say is quite representative of the techniques that start to become requisite in climbing mid grade problems and includes a joyous pinch on the arete in the most perfect of positions. The Hole was a very basic and Swiss style pit problem involving some long pulls and satisfying moves. It was also thankfully very well shaded and the conditions in the pit were very reminiscent of the micro climates in Magic Wood. Naturally I made some non climbing friends that had come for the ride witness the sheer brutality of Shadow Play. They seemed about 15% in awe and the situation was likened to the journeys they used to go on with their mother to Roman forts and Wattle and Daub museums. Irrespectively, I took a minute out to imagine G on the send locking hideous micro flat pinches and edges doubtless without emitting a single sound. Truly mindblowing.
Saturday past, Matt and I awoke at 5.45 to head to Rubicon. I was approaching the route scene with an open mind and no expectations but Matt wanted to crush Zeke once more. He's been training hard and it's a real pleasure to watch someone who hasn't been on this route in over a decade take to it as if it was a trade route. Of course he had to familiarise himself with the holds and a very specific sequence and it was probably only a wrong hand movement that stood between him and the crush.
In the cold temps of the early morning it was a little difficult to awaken the body for both of us and it probably wasn't ideal that the warmup consisted of some brief jug pulling before hopping onto an 8b. After Matt had spent time ascertaining what he needed to do next session, I felt I should get a taste for what I would be in for should I commit to sport climbing.
To me, Peak limestone is a little like looking at a TV screen of that visually caustic white noise once found on 80s televisions. I can't differentiate one hold from the next let alone decide where I should put my body. From such little outdoor climbing of late my skin was horrendous on the sharp edges and incuts that feature on some of the holds but I still dogged through sections of the route and slowly began to see where I needed to be to link certain moves. It was perhaps slightly foolish for me to jump on this route but currently my fingers are at their strongest ever and no hold felt in any way bad apart from the most knacky pinch/crimp hold at half height. I walked away from the morning feeling a strong urge to rack up the route hours and work hard on improving the elementary skills required for hard redpointing. It's perhaps slightly foolish to have jumped in at the deep end grade wise but it really does feel like a simple matter of accruing a lot more rock hours and listening to Matt's voice of reason who clearly believes in my capabilities and is keen for me to succeed.
And so the campaign to reinvigorate my regimes, rock types and motor memory has begun. Rather than returning week after week to the same old venues, it's clear that the way forward is in seeking out all that is new and listening closely to the feedback from talented peers (as is ever the case).
Yesterday I acquired my new MacBook Pro and it's very alien to be able to interact so comprehensively with the internet and architectural applications. The unexpected death of the ibook G4 has been a blessing in disguise and gone are the days of waiting an hour for a pdf to open. Expect to see much more video and imagery here from now on.
Happy crushing to you all.
Tuesday, 8 September 2009
Addendum
I walked away from writing the last post and felt something was missing.
I set this blog up purely as a cathartic means of voicing my aspirations, concerns, and priorities. I'm fairly sure the former and the latter are catered for and only until they become manifest will they readjust. But what of my concerns? Since I left a relationship which was just shy of 7 years, I've found it increasingly difficult to sustain climbing motivation in a consistent sense. Perhaps the stability and regularity of everything facilitated a 'schedule', I'm not too sure.
When I consider my climbing peers, where we were all at and what we wanted to achieve two years ago, many significant developments have occured for them. Around this time, the gulf between myself and an esteemed friend and climbing partner was not vast. As my motivation levels have undergone fits and starts, inevitably I have inflicted a sort of dual effect upon myself whereby because of this inconsistency I've left myself a giant hole to dig myself out of and I have become aware that the time that has elapsed will now delay some of the aspirations that I would have been seeing lately.
Thankfully, a recent month and a half of unerring dedication to the beastmaker propelled me past something of a plateau but again, I veered from the path of consistency to one of hedonism. That's not to say that this is a bad thing but I must realise that the one constant that's always been in my life has been that of climbing. Even despite a lengthy hiatus in my first undergraduate degree I still ventured out on occassion to the Yorkshire crags. The hiatus was in many ways very neccessary for me to focus upon my supreme goal at that time - to gain a first classification in my study. I acheived this and I immersed myself wholeheartedly in doing so but at the expense of acheiving any climbing goals. I stand by the priority I accorded here.
If I am to attempt a self critique, I can say that although outwardly I am confident, I've become aware over the past couple of years that inwardly, I can lack self-confidence in my ability and potential ability. It's sometimes too easy to say that ''I've left it too late'' or rather more simply "I'm not good at this and can't see myself becoming good". Whilst nothing I hear from anybody be it close climbing friends or a new acquaintance can shape my personal goal setting agendas, it's horrible to hear people say about a climber that "I don't think he's actually that good, he just trains a lot". What aural detritus! I should come to appreciate that the type of person that would make this comment will never fully satisfy what potential they might have. It is a comment that is simply too foolish to reflect even briefly upon.
So to vocalise to myself how I will (and I desperately want to) sustain my motivation for climbing whilst stood at the door of an imminent intense two years of academic study; I'll continue making and acheiving micro goals in the home setting away for the majority of time from the climbing wall. Unlike the public realm, I dictate the atmosphere that I wish to operate within and I control my session away from the external influences of children wandering freely underneath falling climbers. Here, I free myself from distractions and commuting times. I'm also freed from the pressures oft felt at the climbing wall by the gaze of others. I'd not be freely exposing to myself my concerns if I didn't include this particular issue.
In summary I hope that the hermitic (of course not totally) decision I've made rewards me with some goals that I now know can be acheived. I won't apologise as perhaps I ordinarily might for you reading this and know that the peers I value will be able to succintly translate what I am saying.
It's good to talk. To yourself.
I set this blog up purely as a cathartic means of voicing my aspirations, concerns, and priorities. I'm fairly sure the former and the latter are catered for and only until they become manifest will they readjust. But what of my concerns? Since I left a relationship which was just shy of 7 years, I've found it increasingly difficult to sustain climbing motivation in a consistent sense. Perhaps the stability and regularity of everything facilitated a 'schedule', I'm not too sure.
When I consider my climbing peers, where we were all at and what we wanted to achieve two years ago, many significant developments have occured for them. Around this time, the gulf between myself and an esteemed friend and climbing partner was not vast. As my motivation levels have undergone fits and starts, inevitably I have inflicted a sort of dual effect upon myself whereby because of this inconsistency I've left myself a giant hole to dig myself out of and I have become aware that the time that has elapsed will now delay some of the aspirations that I would have been seeing lately.
Thankfully, a recent month and a half of unerring dedication to the beastmaker propelled me past something of a plateau but again, I veered from the path of consistency to one of hedonism. That's not to say that this is a bad thing but I must realise that the one constant that's always been in my life has been that of climbing. Even despite a lengthy hiatus in my first undergraduate degree I still ventured out on occassion to the Yorkshire crags. The hiatus was in many ways very neccessary for me to focus upon my supreme goal at that time - to gain a first classification in my study. I acheived this and I immersed myself wholeheartedly in doing so but at the expense of acheiving any climbing goals. I stand by the priority I accorded here.
If I am to attempt a self critique, I can say that although outwardly I am confident, I've become aware over the past couple of years that inwardly, I can lack self-confidence in my ability and potential ability. It's sometimes too easy to say that ''I've left it too late'' or rather more simply "I'm not good at this and can't see myself becoming good". Whilst nothing I hear from anybody be it close climbing friends or a new acquaintance can shape my personal goal setting agendas, it's horrible to hear people say about a climber that "I don't think he's actually that good, he just trains a lot". What aural detritus! I should come to appreciate that the type of person that would make this comment will never fully satisfy what potential they might have. It is a comment that is simply too foolish to reflect even briefly upon.
So to vocalise to myself how I will (and I desperately want to) sustain my motivation for climbing whilst stood at the door of an imminent intense two years of academic study; I'll continue making and acheiving micro goals in the home setting away for the majority of time from the climbing wall. Unlike the public realm, I dictate the atmosphere that I wish to operate within and I control my session away from the external influences of children wandering freely underneath falling climbers. Here, I free myself from distractions and commuting times. I'm also freed from the pressures oft felt at the climbing wall by the gaze of others. I'd not be freely exposing to myself my concerns if I didn't include this particular issue.
In summary I hope that the hermitic (of course not totally) decision I've made rewards me with some goals that I now know can be acheived. I won't apologise as perhaps I ordinarily might for you reading this and know that the peers I value will be able to succintly translate what I am saying.
It's good to talk. To yourself.
Getting all Zanussi
After two days on training at home last Thurs/Fri, I gave the weekend over to socialising and a catchup with Donners. He's been training pretty hard of late and suggested we hit Rubicon up on sunday past. Alas conditions conspired against us and instead of a long haul futile journey, we spent the day relaxing and reclining at his gaff.
Had the third garage session yesterday and despite feeling a tiny bit rundown got through it ok; trying to focus on ironing out some of the inconsistencies with the left arm. Added a 4mm edge this morning and plan to incorporate this into an adapted training routine. Much like repeaters simulate the application of contact/pressure on a problem or route, I've figured out a useful means of training for some of the shorter harder sport routes I'd like to give a bash. The idea being a hang of 8 secs on the main rung, 3 secs rest, 8 secs 5mm rung, 3 secs rest.....
It should prove useful in quantifying gains throughout the month and when I can do this for a considerable period will start to introduce the 4mm edge into the equation.
Off out to the Lake District tomorrow to give a few new (to me) areas a go with Paul. Haven't been to Cumbria in a long time so am looking forward to it. Some pictures to follow.
Had the third garage session yesterday and despite feeling a tiny bit rundown got through it ok; trying to focus on ironing out some of the inconsistencies with the left arm. Added a 4mm edge this morning and plan to incorporate this into an adapted training routine. Much like repeaters simulate the application of contact/pressure on a problem or route, I've figured out a useful means of training for some of the shorter harder sport routes I'd like to give a bash. The idea being a hang of 8 secs on the main rung, 3 secs rest, 8 secs 5mm rung, 3 secs rest.....
It should prove useful in quantifying gains throughout the month and when I can do this for a considerable period will start to introduce the 4mm edge into the equation.
Off out to the Lake District tomorrow to give a few new (to me) areas a go with Paul. Haven't been to Cumbria in a long time so am looking forward to it. Some pictures to follow.
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