Thursday, 19 July 2007

Ho hum

Had a surprisingly good board session tonight despite having a bad throat and feeling generally off sorts. In the scheme of things, I probably shouldn't have trained as it goes against the golden rules of training when tired/ill but had to keep my commitment to show young James Gray the board. Think he seemed to enjoy himself and got some good advice from various people. He seems quick to assimilate techniques and training methods so I'm sure the boy will go far(albeit with my advice of 'just bone it', Hess' of 'just lank it' and O's of 'just jump it'. There again, perhaps he will turn into some hideous training monster with knackered tendons aged 14. I hope he sticks with it as he had an impressive first session.

Despite not managing to even pull off the ground on project y tonight, I moved on to another line I had been formulating and stuck some good moves on it. Combined with the sitter, it will go but probably not until the winter months now given the immense relative humidity of late. We shall see.

Rich was looking in good shape for Magic next week as was O and Si. Hopefully conditions will hold out for them to yield a good trip.

Enough for now, there's bursary forms to be written!

Wednesday, 18 July 2007

Surprise surprise

After Saturday's woeful session, the finger felt better so it was off to the Orme. The cave had wet streaks in a few places but as Split Infinity was in decent nick, I decided to have a pop at something I'd been meaning to for a while. I've always looked at Flip Flop extension as something I could nail so got on it. Surprised myself by pissing many of the moves and felt really good on all sections into Lickety Spit. In the back of your mind is that if you were to get this dialled, you could eventually carry on into Incomplete Youth - the ultimate line.

Rest of the day was spent up at Dumbell Flyer. At end of session, located Texas Karaoke Massacre and psyched to get on it next trip out. Great to be out with Polish Mike for the day as he's been out in pursuit of some lucrative sponsorship program in Poland for the last few weeks.

Been good to feel the effects of a sustained weight training program and plenty of volume on the lime throughout summer. Also nice, is a slight rise over the seemingly unending plateau of late.

Board session tomorrow night.

Sunday, 15 July 2007

Let's get serious

I really haven't yet utilised this as a proper means of documenting my climbing and training regime. I've been keeping a training diary but it doesn't seem to allow the degree of flexibility to ramble on as this blog does. Rambling on is good and it lets others see what you're thinking and acts as a good means to get good feedback from them.

Thursday's board session started brilliantly. I'd been psyched out of my mind all day for it and was feeling a good turn of power as a culmination of the previous weeks weight training (at last!). Dropped off a bit for some reason but then turned it on and sent mine and O's project with ease which felt good. Levers on the new house fingerboard have aided body tension no end and I'm really going to focus on doing regular sets each week.

Yesterday was spent in the Pass on a bit of new area tour. I'd wanted to go to work the Harvey Oswald sitter as I've now done all the moves and just need that tiny extra bit of micro endurance. Perhaps thankfully, we didn't end up in the pit as I was climbing horrendously. I'd sliced my finger on some stupid new knife from Ikea on Friday night which meant I was crimping/open handing everything with two fingers. I'd also done something weird to my right index finger on the board on thursday which didn't help.

I came home thinking how it was a pleasant day irrespective but I think really I was dissapointed to have not been in tip-top condition. In the scheme of things, I deal well with off-days compared to many others I know but I have to stop putting pressure on myself to perform well every Saturday.

Donnelly and Deery rocked up at 4 as Ben and I were departing which was a shame. Dave was looking as composed and in control as ever (an element of his climbing I'm very much in awe of) and Matt seemed as optomistic as ever. Hopefully they knocked some good stuff off.

Enough for now. Tomorrow is devoted to finishing the decoration of my new room and other boring shit. Probably cram some fingerboard time in before work at the wall. Roll on Tuesday - Ormes day!