Tuesday, 30 October 2007

An attrocious idea

For some reason, after only 2 weeks of recovery from an A2 tear I decided it would be a good time to try Rock Attrocity in the cave today. Unbelievably, my attempt to commit climbing career suicide failed and I had an ok session on it. Managed most of it in pieces but could never fully commit to boning down on the left hand. A lack of climbing and general exercise over the last fortnight due to uni work made me feel heavy as could be. Relatively pleased with my progress on it though think I will have to dog it to death (naturally). Looking forward to gaining some serious redpoint strength...

Tomorrow see's a likely chaotic day trying to finish my axonometric drawing of Rogers House ready for Thursdays day workshop (which I'm dreading!).

After trying to withdraw from studies last week, the head of year effectively refused my wish and said to at least give it until Christmas. I'm following his sagely advice and hoping that once this current project ends, we'll actually get to do some designing.

We'll see how that pans out...

Thursday intending to do weights and go for a run to shed some ounces. Saturday may well train it back to the cave.

The story continues..

Friday, 26 October 2007


It's been around a week and a half now since I stopped 'serious' climbing. Despite never getting injury's, it had to come as I was on the cusp of something good. Old problem's I'd wanted to come back to as fast gains were finally being made were starting to reopen at a more feasible level.

After speaking to Matt Donnelly (physio and crimpeur par excellence) he reassured me that it's now time to reintroduce climbing and strapped my finger up good style. His diagnosis - partially torn A2 pulley and some collateral damage ( I think?) Tuesday, I headed down to the board to try some of these recently fathomed easy circuits. A full circular tour of the board on decent holds turned out to be just the ticket. On Matt's suggestion, I also worked some pocket problems and problems where my left hand was on jugs/pinches/slopes and the right hand on poor holds. It was actually pretty good and something I might not have considered doing had injury not come about.

I guess the beauty in that form of training is that by hanging poor holds with your right and making big moves to good holds with your left, you're effectively dead-hanging on a steep board.

Matt tells me it'll be about 6 weeks of graduated climbing before getting back to closed crimping but I figure this is a good thing. I remember Jerry saying something on Pro Tips or something that he likes to climb on the barrel at the foundry using big open slopes when recovering from finger injurys. I think I could take a lot from this as that style of climbing is a prominent weakpoint of mine.

I think the adapted maxim of "what would Jerry do?" is a seminal one. Well done to bad boy bradbury if that was your contribution!

Tomorrow - climbing where it isn't raining.

Sunday, 14 October 2007


I made a vow with myself to keep this form of diary going. I've been slacking with it the last fortnight since uni work set in (which incidentally is hardcore and I'm running a bit behind with it to be honest with myself).

Anyway, last saturday I trained it over to Flint to meet Doylo for a session at the mwyn and the den. Had a decent day and finally locked horns with what I now like to profess as the best board in the world. Managed to squeeze Snatch out (Den 7a) and sadly didn't complete Ballsack although did every move in turn. I can see how the den could do so so much for my climbing. It's all well and good locking bum crimps on merseyside sandstone, but I'd say exposure to this rocktype has had a negative effect on any dynamism that I might possess. Rediscovering Frodsham of late will no doubt do me the world of good if I take myself through O, Ben's and Mick's catalogue of local climbing testpieces.

My point being from all of this that the problems in the den all involve key elements of what I need to work - big moves on small and poor holds. I really can't enthuse enough about its usefulness as a training facility but until I get off my arse and find the money/time to continue with driving lessons, it doesn't look like I'm going to get to pay it many visits. Hoping to find a way around this, but for now I'll keep up the campus and dispensary sessions.

Talking of the dispensary, I'm convinced its messing with my chest and I feel like my asthma has come back. Obviously the guys will rip all hell out of me for going on about this, but having 2 chest infections in a month isn't right. Maybe I'll take a hoover down or something.

Tuesday, I headed over to Andy Popp's board with Pete. Although I was climbing like a donkey, it was an awesome session and good to meet Andy at last and some other new faces. Will Simm is a total beast and I defy any man aged 61 to try to compete with his physique.

If for nothing else, I'd recommend joining as many different people's board sessions as one can. Social anthropologists would have a field day in them. Let's just briefly draw up a chart of the main bulk of conversation at the different boards I've been to:

The Dispensary: Mostly hustling with a strong scent of ladyboy interest.

Andy Popp's: Women and piles occupied a fair percentage with some references to quality ales. Awesome.

Denbigh Den: Penis size and sack volume with a decent smattering of references to one's mother or father.

I've got some other boards on my hitlist I'll be travelling to over the coming months but you get my drift.

Reckon I'm about to be shat on from a great height workload-wise this week but will pull all the stops out.

Monday, 1 October 2007


With week one over, it's been straight in at the deep end of my architectural education. I'm told 23 is still 'youth' yet everyone seems to be 12 or 13 on the course. With degree one under my belt, the lecturers seem to think I must be the shit and I really don't feel it. A total rollercoaster of a week but learning to use the RIBA online catalogue today gave me more satisfaction than you could possibly imagine.

So far, training and saturday climbing action hasn't been affected and I hope this pattern continues. Saturday just past was spent in the pass for Double D's birthday and was a quality day. Despite having a crippled lower back, still managed to flash some decent problems and linked much of Bus Stop. Given optimum physical fitness, pretty sure this will be dispatched.

May head dispensary way tomorrow or hit the campus board. Nothing significant to report as of recent times - I hope this changes as temps continue to drop. At least I've rediscovered my foot beta for Bangkok Chickboys. Here's to Rotherham linkup.