Wednesday, 26 December 2007

Xmas loadup

As it's Christmas, I thought I'd philosophically loiter...

I've been thinking a lot about self-deprecation in climbing lately. Initially I had considered it completely detrimental to one's performance and successes but have now started to think about it further. Where does the thin line between self-reflection and constructive criticism meet the point of self-deprecation? Can self deprecation be an invaluable tool in striving for greater things? Should I be belittling my achievements as the standard of the day increases? Is self-deprecation the new trend? Is this even relevant to a climber of my level?

I can think of some immediate examples of individuals who I would deem to subscribe to this notion, all of whom are very strong and talented climbers. So perhaps it's a configuration that spurs those individuals on. I can see how this works; yes you have gotten to the top of a problem that you have invested considerable time and energy into hence it stands to reason that you needn't dwell on that individual experience being the sum pinnacle of your climbing career. Of course you can improve beyond the present.

Consider my recently conceived affair with Rock Attrocity. In this, I can see all that I question; that slap. That one moment has everything I desire and do not desire in climbing. I have weak arms. Are they stopping me from climbing this section smoothly or are my arms not as weak as I think they are and is it my mind forming a self-imposed stopping block? After all, I have done every move and feel good on each in turn, why shouldn't I feel good about the problem as a whole?

I'll try to attempt an answer upon completing the problem no matter how far or how soon that end may come.

Thursday, 20 December 2007

Rain, mist drizzle, jerry etc..

Tuesday night headed over to Betwys with Dale and Rich, the idea being to get Dale up 20+ problems in a day. We did exactly that and got him up 21 despite near death experience temps and windchill.

Got a text from Owen yesterday suggesting I accompany him to the Peak. Initially wrote the prospect off but after being encouraged it would be a good social event, I agreed. Told Owen and Mick about my injury to which they both did a 'make a circle' test. The left hand circle folded at first but when Mick tried it again and asked me to actually try, it was established that I hadn't in fact hurt the pulley and was told to climb through the pain. 'Crushed' Banana Finger (in as much as one can flash/crush a 6a) and realised it mightn't be that bad after all. Pottered around on Remergence block in the mist and reassured myself that it wasn't the final curtains and in fact would be around 4 weeks until back to crimp. Good news which means my quest to tick the Orme can continue.

All in all a decent day. Must get back to the drawing board and 'crush' some drawings.

N.B Why has the word 'crush' become engrained in my active vocabulary? Who cares, let's crush everything ever.

Monday, 17 December 2007


Saturday was spent on the Orme. Still felt quite sore in the arms from thursdays weights sessions so didn't loiter for long in the cave. Mike Binks came over for an introductory tour and loved it. Headed up to Pill Box were I felt strong. After the first attempt on Whisky Bitch I knew it was sorted. Cue rest then tearing noise in index finger along with sharp pain. Being the drama queen that I am, I thought the bone had snapped but 2 days later I'm pretty sure it's not that. Going to venture to A&E later for an X-Ray and see Matt for physio advice.

Ordinarily I'd be totally furious about this what with having a considerable portion of last month off with a collateral strain. For some reason I'm more relaxed about it as I'll have to ride it out and am starting to accept that injuries are part and parcel of it all. Also have tons of uni work and revision to do so maybe locking myself in the study for a month will give me some good academic results.

Saturday, 8 December 2007

grease fest

A rare moment of dryness on recent trips. Local fat lad fondles mr whippy

Thursday, 6 December 2007


Got the train to Llandudno yesterday and ventured to the cave and pill box with Crouch. He managed to blast through to the end of Rock Attrocity but miscalculated the slap to the finishing pocket. Total shame as he was in real control and wanted the send badly. However, the magic problem that yields very few attempts before fatigue sets in got the better of him and he'll return next week and no doubt get the send. I had a decent session on it making it through comfortably to the sloper slap setup but being an idiot didn't think I was actually going to get there and hence didn't remember the foot beta. Sometimes I surprise myself and need to prepare for this in future.

Ventured to Pill Box, Rich did Mr Whippy which he'd been wanting to do and I kept greasing off the nubbin on Whisky Bitch to go to the shared crimp towards the end. Must remember to not make the mistake of caning the cave prior to going to what is a total entity in its own right.

Was nicing climbing with Ian and Jamie-(local cave devotees) as everyone was on the same redpoint wavelength on the day going for many of the same problems. Ian had Lou Ferrino dialled for the send but could tell excitement took over when he got his fingers in the good pocket, resulting in a bit of a harsh deckout. He'll clearly get it in a near session.

Saturday plan to crag y it if the wind isn't too bad.