Thursday, 20 March 2008

Thomas Mills the 2nd and rock n roll

After the big man's TV appearance, he told me to look up tom mills+john lennon on google. Seems he's created a bit of a wave in the rock n roll history archives by revealing Lennon's record from the ATC. BBC news gave some coverage to the story which I thought was cool.

Anyway, I put Mick's video online last night but the first few seconds got corrupted somehow. I'll try again after finishing up here at me parentos. The 3 week holiday begins today!

Oh and I climbed two crypt V5's the other night which equates to around Den 7b+, which equates to outside 7c+. A landmark stage in my career, I'm really very hapy.

Saturday, 15 March 2008

Keen Pensioner

OK, a quick post as it's 9pm, I'm exhausted and I want to socialise for a few hours before bed.

Went to Pantymwyn with O, D, and Mick today. Mule popped along further into the afternoon to join us standing under the roof evading the rain, but not before a trip up the hill to Frodsham. On arrival, we found Hoopla in a terrible state and a team prediction that the gorge might still be in condition lead us on the road to Clwyd.

Sadly, Under the Bridge was soaked in the upper section, as was the wall in general which of course meant no project action today. After a brief conversation with Doylo yesterday, he mentioned the 'blank wall' right of said line. Now, I'll never write a wall climb off as blank. There is ALWAYS a means of gaining upward inertia and just as I predicted, this line will be surmountable, but not without buckets of lank, fierce, fierce boning of small quartz edges and a lot of motivation. Check, check and check.

I despise quartz holds and some of these are a particularly despicable breed of quartz edge (I'm really throwing you off the scent of my project here aren't I?). Nevertheless, I am 100% percent committed to getting to that shothole finish and will be back in more favourable conditions. There's potentially a couple of other similar projects in the immediate vicinity but much will depend on the wall being in condition to afford a frutiful session working them.

Finally took my idiot cap off and did gasoline from a standup, but not without being a complete baffoon in the process impersonating a steroidal Austrian bodybuilder. Note to self - must stop being a complete tool when climbing. Anyway, I'd like to do the whole thing next time the place is bone dry.

Most notable part of the day was Mick doing the direct roof start to gasoline. An impressive span, he mooted it to be around font 7c but not without incorporating his now commonplace disclaimer which reads something along the lines of
"I can't grade anyway".

I managed to capture the ascent on film, replete with dogs barking and men jabbering. Is it possible I might one day film a friend climbing without the sound of dogs or sexually-driven waffle?

I'll have a mammoth post some day soon of all these images and films I keep mentioning. I Promise Rich.

Wednesday, 12 March 2008

Biceps mou=soft biceps

Is appparently the translation offered by my French friend. Although perhaps it shouldn't be so literal?

Anyway. Haven't had much time to blog over the last week due to a combination of factors (mostly pertaining to exhaustive work hours at the wall, sorting out uni admin matters and climbing/training a lot). Crouch even told me off for not updating this. Is all this waffle really THAT interesting for you?

Lore came over late last week and it was awesome. Everything fell into place for him in terms of the logistics of the trip. After a night of sleep on the National Express (not to be envied), he rocked up at 6am whereupon I sent him straight to bed for a few hours. After some coffee and fuel, we arrived at the Orme and began the warmup. Doylo, Jim and Ian were down to meet Lore. I remember clocking the expressions on said men when they got to witness their first "Corleone!!". Priceless. I thought Jim had shit himself!

Upon finding out RA was a Jerry problem, the man became even more psyched going on to do it in two halves. With so much to take in in one day, it was a very credible effort and I'm told the following day on the grit and the ale was just as successful.

I have a picture of a man clearly in a state of Zen on the Orme I'll post up post-bath.

In the same session, despite feeling like dog turd and shattered, I managed to get to the finishing slot on the first attempt of RA only to mis stab it and fall off. Shame as there was still loads of gas for the match left. Perhaps I should rename this blog, the "One punter's attempt to do Rock Attrocity blog".

Anyway, manged to do Under the Bridge at Pantymwyn last night 3rd go on my second session which was nice. Strangely it succumbed to beta that I was sure initially wouldn't work for me. I really do think it's one of the most underrated problems around. Incredible tension and slap moves. 7b+ apparently and wonder if a sitter or extension traverse into it would add much in the way of quality? Might have a look this week.

Bath time baby.