Sunday, 27 April 2008

To Berlin or not to Berlin?

Techno truly is the greatest thing on the planet. The seed was sown from a very young age when my grandmother gave me the incredible Rolf Harris endorsed/designed Stylophone instrument. It took some years before I got the standard introduction to the likes of Kraftwerk but the love of synthesised sounds still continues to overwhelm me with every new track I hear.

I haven't engaged in any physical activity whatsoever over the weekend as I want to be fresh for the hard week of training and climbing ahead. Had a hedonistic night in Liverpool on friday with the doc and two of his friends. Unlike the doc, they were too geeky (and I think the girl actually has sexual mental health issues) for me and enjoyed cracking all manner of jokes pertaining to blood glucose monitoring, ECG's etc. etc. I was seriously down for some techno and wanted to hunt it down but the collective as a whole weren't feeling my dirty bad boy vibe. Returned home at 4AM anyway and lay down listening to a variety of sets for the rest of the day.

Anyway, after a brief email conversation, I've become super psyched to head to the Sunday Adventure Club at the Berghain club in Berlin. The lineup is immense and the ticket price even more so; 15 Euros!! That is insanely good value to see Dear, Carola, Magda, Hawtin, Wink et al. A ticket to Berlin from Liverpool would undoubtedly be piss cheap if I book it now and the event could be too good to miss. Outdoor party in day, moves indoor by night into the next day). May try to persuade some of you to come.......

Check the site: www.sundayadventureclub.de

Check out these cats enjoying some Berghain action (usual poor camera phone quality but perhaps demonstrative of the atmosphere):



Enjoy your evenings lovelys.

Friday, 25 April 2008

3 dirty men in a cave

Trained it over to Flint yesterday morning to meet Doylo. After some early morning hail showers, we drove into good weather with a little cloud cover. Headed to Gop Hill first as dirty man number one wanted to crush Push the Button (8a bloc) and I'd never been so wanted to see it. After an extensive warmup consisting of pull ups and deadhangs, I wanted to try Smoke a Bloke (7b+). I felt real strong pulling on and moving but it took me 2 goes to realise I needed to be putting my right foot on first rather than left foot first. The right crimp is small and sharp which gave me a bit of a premature incision but nothing I couldn't deal with for the rest of the day. I love one move problems and the pinch and crimp on this problem feel so good with a perfect distance to a slot. Will try it again if in the vicinity at some point in the future.

Next up, Mule joined us and we stayed at le Gop for a while longer before heading to the sacred Orme. Everyone had something to work in the cave and after a relatively short session in there, we went up to Pill Box. Doylo nearly crushed his sitter project after some beta experimentation but just dropped off around the top. No doubt you're crushing this as I write dawg. Got back on the only section of the Malteser (7c) I have trouble with which involves a very bouncy slap to a beautiful thin crimp/pinch thing. Although didn't manage to latch it, I sussed some beta for a bit of a right foot scum and think when fresh I can nail this move. Did Last Orders (7a) to finish which was an excellent problem.

Plan for today; run, tidy, Keiths wine bar for coffee and reading. I wish I could take you all there, it's simply my favourite place on earth. Maybe I'll try and take some photos in there.

Wednesday, 23 April 2008

Weather change

Yesterday was the distinct start of warm weather. I know they call the lime around now in the Peak, but I can't help wonder if we're calling the end on the Orme? Will the cave not just become a big greasebowl? Anyway, there's projects in the pass to be dealt with so this could be a good thing.

Yesterday was another power endurance circuit session. Very similar to the one documented last week but had to cruise through this one quick smart in time for the Champions League game. Riise, what were you thinking? A diving header on a basic clearance? Anyway, I'm going to write a whole entry about Drogba the dirty bastard when I have time.

Wanted to run through the park this afternoon but going to take a walk down Lark Lane (the best road in the world) and decide on my course of action for the evening. Tomorrow, I'll be either cave bound or mwyn bound.

At last, there's some decent nights ahead with Ben Klock, Villalobos and Hawtin all arriving on UK shores within the next few months. Doubtless there are more and the Rhumba night seems to be getting better by the month and drawing in good names.

Tuesday, 22 April 2008

My grandmother passed away in the early hours of yesterday morning. My parents were there with her and her passing was said to be peaceful. I'm obviously saddened that I've lost someone who was very close to me, but also relieved she isn't in pain any longer. Her sense of humour remained intact until the very end and that was a testament to her personality.

Sunday, 20 April 2008

1 month on

Isn't it amazing what a month can do (why has this begun like a Sex and the City episode?)?

The last month's seen an incredibly low frequency of outdoor action but a relatively high volume of training. I've been staying with my parents and going to the hospital for the last week so it was nice to seize a moment yesterday to head out to the beloved Orme. I'd set my alarm for a bit of a lie-in and intended to train it to the dudno but a chance call from mad dog Edmonson meant that we were both now going in his van and would head down to Gyrn Goch for Ben's party afterwards.

Met up with senor Doyle, informing him of my plans to check Snout out. Snout wasn't to be as Danny is a rampant rabbit and I simply wasn't strong enough, but the real reason for failure seemed to be the difficulty in getting a heel-toe in quite a bunched position (as I'm sure Doylo will testify to). This confirms two things; 1. Danny is a mutant. 2. One must persist, persist, persist until you sometimes have to rape a problem into submission.

Bearing that in mind, and after some time spent between us trying to establish a FA near Snout, Doylo headed off and I went for a quick blast on RA.

Two things happened; I was at the last move in no time and my arms ran out of gas completely. Couldn't work out if this was from the session up at Snout or if it was due to spending such a period of time away from it. I think it's most likely the latter but it felt good floating through it.

All in all, really good to get out between things. Check out the Sunday Sermon, it's simply magical.

Thursday, 17 April 2008

Trainer porn

OK so it's hardly making amends for the drivel I spouted earlier but I had a breakthrough in the ZX hunt earlier after some exhaustive searching.

Check out these potential candidates;

Seen before but rate them:

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These are a hot, hot favourite but I'm not sure the site selling them will import them;

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Loving the Kosovan refugee vibe with these bad boys;

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Question is, which to go for? All of them?

Ordered this beast today to accessorise;

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'Accessorise'? I think I'm bisexual.

Ingenious training facility

And there it was; it came to me yesterday whilst resting between sets.

I've been searching for a place around the house for a while to put my much needed fingerboard to no avail. It's all really poor quality plasterboard or just not a suitable place. I realised that between rungs 4 and 5, I could place two 2 t nuts in the campus board and using long M10 bolts, I could put up and take down the fingerboard at will.

Due to the angle of the campus board being 15 degrees, I'll need the rear of the fingerboard I'm going to make to sit flush to this angle. This is clearly no great revelation but I needed to write it down before I forgot this simple and ingenious solution.

Reading Lore's posts about power makes me realise I have jack shit in the tank. There's a crimp at the mwyn I can one arm deadhang for a decent period but that's about it. After power season MK 1, I've decided to move on to systematic one arm dead hanging sessions with a counter-weight.

How very fucking interesting this has been for you. I'll try and find something interesting later on to make amends....

Wednesday, 16 April 2008

Power season MK 1

As mentioned yesterday, the current onus is on power. From A Level Sport Science, I learnt the great virtues of periodisation and I try to actively adhere to it's principles.

Managed to pop home to Liverpool this afternoon for a campus/weights/CoC session. Due to my time being very limited for the immediate future, I decided to have a sort of climbing-specific circuit training session. So, on went the weight belt and I had a full campus session doing the usual laddering/down-laddering/touches/maximal attempts etc. Could notice a slight sap in power from wearing the belt, but felt good by and large.

Next up was the weighted leg raises and CoC closes. 3 sets of 10 controlled 90 degree raises and straight onto 3 sets of 5 maximal CoC closes; they felt piss tonight and I didn't fade noticably on any particular rep.

After this and surging with energy, I moved onto the weights and did some maximal military presses and bicep curls. Performed each set after 2 mins rest and overloaded the system good-style.

I'm staying at my parents for the time being and playing each day by ear whilst my grandmother is in hospital. My dad is encouraging me to go away this weekend on the Ysgo trip for showtime's birthday, but I'll have to see.

Read an interesting article in the Guardian's G2 supplement on the bus home entitled 'Blueprint for Style'. It was a humourous overview of the manner in which contemporary architects dress; one of two styles primarily - "either they dress like Le Corbusier, or they dress like their own buildings."

I'd have to agree with this observation on the whole. Strolling through the university faculty's corridors bears a similar resemblance to attending an early 1900's rural French funeral. I think Professor Dunster actually believes he is Mies! If he's not talking about him, he's talking about how much Cognac and how many cigar's he smoked the previous night. A nice guy but a total prick at the same time if you get my drift?

Dunster:

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Mies:

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Tuesday, 15 April 2008

Punch n Crush Gloves

Check out these Superman Punch n Crush Gloves. They're on sale at my local Home Bargain and debating whether to invest in a pair. Not sure what I'd use them for though. Maybe I'll lap Rock Attrocity in them once redpoint stamina steps up a notch.


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Also, check out this kid clearly enjoying his pair.

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Limestone and ZX's

Seeing Keith's photos of La danse de Balrog on UKB earlier reminded me of two things.

1. I desperately need a new pair of ZX's that I'm enamoured with. My current pair are going to be preserved and placed in an acrylic case for display in my bedroom. Future retired pairs will be archived in a similar manner. Despite an hour scouring the net this morning for a site which sells them, I couldn't find anything of any use. Even Size don't seem to have any decent stock in at the moment. Recommendations from those in the know are welcomed....

2. I don't want to forget about my limestone ticklist for the next few months:

> Big G Start (7c) - Trowbarrow
> Aeon (7c) Fairy Steps
> New Rose (7c+ now?) Farleton Knott
> Rock Attrocity (7c) Parisella's Cave


Barring New Rose, I've been on all the others and am highly confident I can do/am close to doing them. I've had a couple of finger board sessions over the past week and my mono dead-hanging duration and depth of mono ability is increasing at a rapid rate. Perfect for the end of year Charante trip (Rouhling's home turf).

After Doylo's ever-inspirational Sunday Sermon just past, I've decided to heed his many years of Orme experience and give Pill Box a bit of a rest. In place, I'm going to work seriously hard on power gains and have invested in a couple of weight belts to get started with.

Vimeo

Finally got involved with Vimeo as a better alternative to youtube.

Will embed future footage via Vimeo. In the meantime, the previously posted video now at:


Untitled from Tom Mills on Vimeo.

Nothing new to note with regards to climbing; I'm at my parents and supporting my mum inasmuch as I can at this difficult time.

Hope you're all mutilating your projects and look forward to seeing you good people out soon.

Friday, 11 April 2008

Recap modotti

Some good news is that my grandmother has had some positive feedback on blood samples. She needs to eat far more than she is doing, but we're hopeful rest and respite will assist in the path to recovery from this infection inflicted by antibiotics to a former condition.

Bad news for ma homies is that you'll have to ciphern through this waffle once again....

I suppose it's been a while and hence a bit too much to comment on. Mike's wedding reception was an all-round success and the only lowlight of the evening was my being made to do the Twist on the dancefloor with his darling wife. I'm fine throwing myself round at techno but stuff like this brings out the robot in me. Seriously, I make Peter Crouch look like Travolta.

From Rotherham it was on to Font. I intended to approach this, my fourth visit to the forest, with an open mind as to what could go down. As with each trip there, I learn something new every time. This trip taught me the invaluable lesson of spending a longer period in the forest enabling one to take a greater number of rest days. Knowing that throughout the course of my sub-fortnight trip, it could rain at any given moment for an undisclosed period of time, I elected to climb nine days out of ten. Granted some of those days weren't full days due to sporadic deluges, but I was active on each of them.
By day 6, my elbows and general body felt sore all over and I began to climb on Ibruprofen (something I dislike doing immensely).

Met Keith by chance at Bas Cuvier early on in the trip and chatted briefly. Later on, met up with the Jim, Lee, Si, Worm outfit and dossed around Big Boss whilst people got involved.

I managed to send some seventh grade problems I wanted to although my valued session on Rubis was marred by poor skin and bad elbows. I got up high in the groove and know it will go down in a future trip as it suits me down to the ground.

Anxious that any advances in cave strength may have receeded but will find out tomorrow if I choose to train it the dudno. Have made the decision I'm not going to grease out of the RA finishing slot this time and instead mutilate it so hard it breaks.

Put a video of the few things I bothered to set the camera up for on youtube. Sorry it's turd quality but it's all I can offer with my current laptop. The start has corrupted for some reason, but I'll reupload it at some point to sort it out.

Sunday, 6 April 2008

Priorities

I haven't intended this blog to be a place for my philosophical musings so I won't elaborate greatly. Currently, my grandmother is ill in hospital. Barring my parents, I haven't ever met a person who has inspired me as greatly as she has and it saddened me to see her as she was tonight. For now, my attention is focused on supporting my mother and being around my family. Consequently, for you good friends that read this, I'm unlikely to write here for a little while and in the meantime, I hope you are all enjoying your climbing to the fullest.