Saturday, 7 August 2010

Unravelling the black hole of lethargy

Something of a mystery lethargy virus has taken its hold across the NW contingent it seems this week. Not quite cold, not quite flu, stripped of the harshness of a chest cold it's just left me feeling like I've had the life sucked out of me for the past four days. I suppose it's naturally worrying if you suddenly start to feel so depleted of energy but thankfully today seems to be a slight improvement upon the previous days. A good few friends reporting similar symptoms. Weird one.

Ventured over to Llandullas yesterday for an easy volume session but was unable to summon an atom of energy and so instead belayed Paulo briefly before sacking it home. One poor day out is perfectly acceptable bearing in mind the ten past have been good I suppose.

The only thing troubling me this week has been the 'above bolts' issue. As I mentioned, I'm really not sure where this has come from as two years ago I was climbing at the wall daily without any worries. Suddenly I seem to be able to climb perfectly fine with a first bolt preclipped but throw something of an inner whitey the moment I'm above it. Think it makes for comedy viewing for the team which is something of a consolation but I'd prefer to be out and out crushing than shitting dirty water. I watched some video of the 'clip drop' technique linked via UKC and I'm sure something like that would be a good way to sort it out. Either that or just some practice lobs at the crag. Answers on a postcard...

Sunday, 1 August 2010

Not so weak a week

The week past has been the second successive week of indulging in what I could claim to be called 'training' and 'climbing'. Generally, I think four sessions is a worthy week and it's rather a luxury for me to find the time to be able to participate to this extent. I'm aware the final academic year ahead of my BA is going to be a tough time so there does feel something of a hurriedness about my current climbing desires and position. I'm sitting on 65% for second year and having learnt so so much this year past, I've put myself in a good position to go for the win - first class honours. I told myself in my first degree that I wouldn't leave university without a first and this assertion has been made again. Now to deliver.

I had a proper session on Mudjakeewis last week and felt better than the week past on it. The lactic threshold is extending itself to me kindly and I'm starting to relax above bolts a little more and enjoy the business at hand. I'm not quite sure why this fear is here as I've never had it mountaineering or climbing indoors so it's probably down to getting reacquainted with heights and feeling confident in the fact that there are no problems.

Paulo, Mike and I nipped over to Dullas tonight for a power hour and given the lack of available time to us, I decided to jump straight back onto Mudja. I tied on and got straight on it in the hope of warming up in situ and to my surprise seriously floated up it to the flattys. I dropped off purposefully and lowered to make sure my fingers were warmed up properly. A minutes rest then I jumped back on and casually got to the last move to the gaston before the easy top section only to not be able to work out where I ideally wanted my right foot. After a brief rest I climbed back on and think I saw a right foot diagonal smear that's probably the ticket to getting stood up to romp home to victory. As time wasn't on our side, I came down and let the others get a mince on. I think success is near and the climbing brilliant. An important pair of factors in making the whole process an enjoyable one.

Tomorrow evening might be a late one at LPT on belay (or relay as you scousers will know it) duty for the Don and Mike with wednesday given over to project time.

I'm working on some architectural watercolour drawings at the moment so hope to post up some snippets of my early experiments with some new materials in the near future. Should you have read this, I hope you are well dear citizen.